Sunday, May 25, 2014

Borneo

I had a vision of what Borneo would be like. Images from my imagination, and probably too many wildlife documentaries over the years. I pictured thick native rainforest, teeming with wildlife and beautiful orchids around every corner. I wasn't completely wrong, but agriculture, economy and cheap labour have turned much of the native forests into fields and fields of palm plantations. This in turn has greatly effected the populations of many of th large mammals in the area. 

I only visited a small area on Borneo, the Malaysian province of Sabah in the NE corner of the island. I got a good idea of the layout of the island on a long 11 hour bus ride from Kota Kinabalu to Semporna (ugh). KK, the province's capital, provided me with one of the most beautiful sunsets of my trip so far, but I didn't stay long as diving the Semporna Archipelago was beconing.

Sunset at Kota Kinabalu
Night market fish BBQ...yum!


















I stayed on the stunning white sand island of Mabul and spent 3 great days diving with Scuba Junkie. It was more eat, dive, sleep and repeat and was was made even better by wonderful dives and great people to spend my time with. Unfortunately, I didn't book early enough to see the gem of the area -diving around Sipadan, but I did do my first "muck dive", where most of the dive is spent in the shallows in the sand looking for weird and wonderful creatures.

The view of the Gypsy village on Mabul

All the dive sites around Mabul
The awesome girls - Kim and Cat who I spent my days with.

See my Facebook album for more pictures.



Next it was onward to the Kinabatangan river with a stop in Sepilok to see some semi-wild orangutans. Many of the ones that come for feedings were brought to the rehabilitation centre after being found in palm plantations, orphaned after their mothers were killed for eating the crops. Lots of education is ongoing for the locals to better deal with the wild orangutans instead of simply killing them. After being rehabilitated they are released into the jungle (much of the area around them is now protected jungle), and some successfully never return for feedings. It did feel a little like being at the zoo though, not the same amazing experience as tracking wild mountain gorillas in Rwanda.
Feeding time!

Zooming in on mom and baby


















I decided on a 2 day river cruise on the Kinabatangan River to see if I could find some of these beautiful apes actually in the wild. Unfortunately, we had no luck seeing the "men of the trees", but we could tell they were in the area because we saw some old nests that they use for sleeping. We did see a ton of other wildlife including proboscis monkeys, known for their protruding bellies and the long noses of the males. As well, crocodiles, long and short tailed macaques, monitor lizards and a python. We also saw a ton of birds, the highlight being several species of hornbill. The birders on my trip were pretty pumped...haha! We also did some night hikes. I dressed in my leech proof outfit to see sleeping birds, spiders, tree frogs and the adorable Western Tarsir. They look like little gremlins and reminded me of the night exhibit at the Toronto zoo. Apparently they are quite difficult to spot and seeing 3 made us a lucky bunch. 

Proboscis male
Long tailed macaque
Crocodile and egret
Short tailed macaque
Leech proof outfit.
Tiny tree frog
Adorable Western Tarsir
Dusk along the Kinabatangan




I celebrated my birthday with a last dawn river cruise and was serenaded with "Happy Birthday" by the other guests, a great way to start the day. I then went back to the Sepilok area to visit the Rainforest Discovery centre where I had many pictures taken with locals. Not sure why I'm so popular, but I'm guessing it's that I'm a single, pale, tall female that was scantily clad in a tank and shorts :) It was a lovely way to spend my day.
Stunning orchids of Borneo
Surrounded by men :)
Catwalk in the jungle































Although I only scratched the surface of Borneo, it was time to fly to Bali, Indonesia.

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